The Art Of Vintaging

So, how to make a difference between „second-hand“, „vintage“ , „used“ or simply „old“? 

Per definition an item has to be at least 20 Years old to be named „vintage“.

As „vintage“ became somehow hip, lots of sellers use this expression delusively to avoid the description „used condition“.

Even sellers of new products are not ashamed to add „vintage“ in their description to give it a verve. 

This may be sometimes confusing and time consumtious but: You cannot change it.

What we can do is, putting our eyes and fingers on the objects:

First trick for textiles: Check the tags. 

In former times they were from the haptical point of view a bit rougher. Todays are more polyester-satin-shiny-alike. 

Check the washing-tag: Due to globalization todays tags got a description in several languages.

On former tags you find mostly one language. Same counts for sizes. 

Most former brands used to produces where they were seated. So it is most likely that a French brand from the 60’s got a „made in France“-tag. 

If you buy a German product, it is quite easy, as it was called „West- Germany“ (or GDR) after WWII until 1990. 

Or: A „made in“ is completely missing. Within the EU since 2014 producers are obliged to identify their goods.

Also the Font of the tag may lead to its history.

High Fashion pieces have their studs sewn on by hand. But this counts mostly for todays works, too. It is rather a question of quality, than age. 

Also how patterns and embellishments are treated. It may be nice but you find a lower quality if the patterns are not corresponding at the seams and the embellishments don’t show in the back.

Some people think that in former times there have been only „natural“ textiles, but this is not true.

Cellulose (Viscose) was already there in diverse production forms and names.

Rayon was one of them, occurring almost pure from wood, mixed with copper and/ or acetate.

But this will be a theme for itself.

My experience with polyester is that there are huge differences. If it is woven with a light structure, there are tiny holes, you will not see but your skin can breathe.

You can be pretty sure that a dress is not from the 50’s and 60’s when the neckline is dropped very deep. They showed legs and backs but breast and bras and asses had to be fully covered.

Same counts for shoes. A mistake often seen in films, that the heels are way to high. The kind of high-heels we know today (+7cm) came up in the 80’s. Maybe due to moral aspects maybe due to technical  progress. (Fetish fashion excluded)

Original dresses from the fifties mostly do have very high darts as the conical underwear created special silhouettes in these days. This can lead to fitting and changing problems.

And always check the bust-measurements. Especially when it comes to 70’s looks when women started to refuse shaping bras and the breast used to be smaller these days.

Bottom seams were often a bit larger than today as it was normal to have the seam of a dress, skirt, jacket or pant adopted. 

I you don’t want to spend a lot of money for famous vintage brands, look for homemade pieces from the 50’-70’s. Ladies of these days often could sew very well and the pattern were up to date. 

Fashion jewelry was in comparison to todays quite heavy as it was often gold-or silver plated or made from solid metals. (Tbc).

Shoes especially from the 50’s are a bit tricky as the pointed form was created from the foot and not -like today- added to the foot. Also the leathers are meanwhile often dry and therefore hard. 

That makes  the shoe uncomfortable and it might break. Check the materials or buy online from dealers who describe it carefully. (Tbc)

You would have to check it also when you buy accessories. Counts also for textile materials as they are stiffened and you fold them continuously while using. Imagine a copper-wire. 

Or you say like me „I do not care that crack, it is old and anyway gorgeous“.  

Enjoy!